By Jessica Legaard, ‘25, Environmental Studies
From the minute we landed, Baku’s distinct aesthetic was striking. Bright, oversized screens at Heydar Aliyev International Airport welcomed us with advertisements for COP29, paired with stunning images of natural landscapes—most of whose exact location is still a mystery to me. Despite the late hour, there was energy in the space that hinted at the vibrancy awaiting us in the city.
The journey to this point, however, was no small feat. On Wednesday, November 6th, accompanied by the rest of Colorado College’s student delegation for COP29, we began our travels first, with a ten-hour flight from Denver International Airport (DIA) to Frankfurt International Airport (FRA). A five-hour layover followed, filled with the smells of bratwurst, pretzels, and beer, offering a taste of Germany before our connecting flight. After nearly 24 hours of travel, we touched down in Baku around 1:30 a.m. on Friday, November 8th.
Finally, after the never-ending travel day, the finish was in sight. We made our way to the exit where our lovely drivers greeted us. Holding signs with the names of our professors, Sarah Hautzinger and Myra Jackson, our drivers helped with our luggage and escorted us into Baku. We stepped outside and turned around to admire the beauty of the airport architecture. I was astonished by the size and lighting of the airport. I had not been expecting the tiered and dome-like structure. By van, we commuted from the airport to the edge of the linked plazas our hotel perched upon, finishing the journey on foot. The time had come to settle in and head to bed before we had the chance to rest and explore the city for the next three days before COP29 commenced on Monday, November 11th.
Time to settle into the city was necessary before the fast-paced days ahead. We were fortunate enough to acquaint ourselves with the metropolis before the hustles and bustle of the conference. The other student delegates and I set out for the city. Routine quickly became a part of our lives in Baku. We fell in love with the convenience and variety available to us at a local artisan bakery chain, Entrée. An Entrée stop was always in order before venturing off. A coffee in hand was a must for all of us! Drinks in hand, we set off, but, we didn’t make it far before finding adorable stray cats around the corner from the café–visits with the charming cats were another requirement.
We quickly found ourselves heading toward Baku’s Old City, which is characterized by an inner wall. According to the UNESCO World Heritage Convention, the inner city was founded as early as the Paleolithic period, while robust defensive walls date to the 12th Century. I was mesmerized by the weaving alleys with clotheslines, vines, and cats in search of a spot for sunbathing. It was stunning to see the preservation of the original architecture.
Finally, we had enough exploring of the city and it was time to return to our hotel, a home base for the duration of the trip. En route, we found a metro station closely located by the Old City. The glass-like structure was a stark contrast to the brick and cobblestone features of the walled maze. I was struck by the large crowds flowing in and out of the train station. I looked closer and saw posters sitting on easels. I asked a security guard if I could take a closer look at the exhibits, despite not having an entrance ticket. They let me through and I was stunned by the artwork. Not only was this an exhibit in support of COP29, but the artwork was completed by local youth aged from 6 to 16 years old. I was stunned by the messaging and variety of the artwork mediums.
As I took this all in, I noticed I was the only one looking at the paintings. The busy commuters rushed in and out of the station. Afterward, I found that this exhibition opened around October 22nd. It was November 10th when we wandered upon this artwork, meaning the installation had been at this station for a considerable amount of time. I wanted to assume that most of these passers-by had taken the time to at least take a walk through the gallery.
Some depicted images of the Earth encompassing healthy environments. Others highlighted a desolate Earth depleted of resources. There were a few landscapes such as fall foliage or an ocean sunset with peacocks. Some were focused on a single subject like a deer, two pigeons, or a bouquet of flowers. Despite the differences in the art, the common theme was nature, portrayed through vivid depictions of hope, loss, determination, and fear. In each piece, no matter the skill level or intricacy, the children were telling a story. It reminded me that the work that was to begin the following day was not abstract. These children almost certainly hadn’t attended a COP. Yet, they were telling stories of current and potential future realities. It was incredible to see young children showing the urgency to protect our environment and planet.
As we prepared to dive into the whirlwind of COP29, I felt grounded by this connection to the city and its people. It was a reminder that while COP is global in scale, the solutions we seek must remain rooted in the local—whether that’s the walls of Baku’s Old City or the hopes expressed through youth’s artwork.
