Posts in: Venture Grant

To start, some odds and ends. Here are a few photos from my Brasilia book with modern day comparisons. I had originally meant to replicate the exact angle but forgot. You still get the general idea though.

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One thing that really surprised me about Brasilia was its extensive bike lanes. When I was first driving in from the airport I had actually noticed that they shut down an entire 4 lane highway and it was moderately filled with bikers, joggers, and families out for walks. Apparently they do this every Sunday. Brasilia had a better biking transport system than Colorado Springs does (though that’s not saying much). It is helpful that Brasilia is quite flat, and enjoys nice weather. I was pleasantly shocked upon seeing all of these bike lanes since one of Brasilia’s most noted flaws is its extreme reliance on cars. However, after asking some people about them, I discovered that the lanes are really only used for recreational biking, not transportation. I would guess this is because of the long distances between work and home, and the lack of a real biking culture there. But its nice to see that the infrastructure is there and that many people were taking advantage of them, even if it was just on the weekend.

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However, the same transportation problems that arise from the city’s construction have remained. I talked to a woman who said it takes her 2.5 hours (yes, HOURS) to get to work each morning.

Which brings me to the protests. Last summer Brasilia (along with other Brazilian cities) protested (and rioted). In Brasilia they stormed up onto the roof of the Congress building, and shot into the administrative buildings. The official reason was World Cup spending, but it was more about being fed up with corrupt public officials. In Brasilia, they mentioned that they were sick of the lack of reliable public transportation. The city built a massive soccer stadium which will most likely go unused after the city hosts the world cup semifinals this summer as the city’s only soccer team is in the third tier, and do not draw large crowds. The money could have been spent on more bus lines but largely went into government officials pockets. With a huge drop in the price of cars in the past few years massive traffic problems have developed despite the wide highways and extensive road system.

The new soccer stadium-my tour guide summed up the construction with explaining that when Beyonce came to town the stadium didn't even fill up.

The new soccer stadium-my tour guide summed up the construction by explaining that the stadium didn’t even fill when Beyonce came to town.

The problems that face Brasilia largely stem from the nature of its construction. By constructing a city in just 41 months, Lucio Costa had to make a lot of assumptions about not only how people live, but how they would live in the future. The famous cities of the world, ones which draw millions of tourists a year, took decades and centuries to form. That’s part of the appeal of these cities.

The problem with Brasilia, and most utopian, ultra-rational city plans, is that they fight against the inherit chaotic nature of humans. We live in cities to have our senses overwhelmed. We want to be surprised by what we see when we turn that winding corner-a beautiful old church or a brightly colored apartment building. Cities should be a bit of an assault on our senses. Brasilia has failed because it fought so hard against those things. I see the initial plan being chipped away at, and the city has regained a bit of a human touch to it, but the rich have dealt with the city’s failings by simply moving out. This is not only bad for city revitalization, but the very opposite of what this utopian city was built for.

Unfortunately I don’t necessarily see the solution within Brasilia’s grasp at the moment. The huge change that is coming is when the inner city apartments which are currently occupied by elderly widows turn over. Perhaps with a higher supply prices will drop and young families can move in-revitalizing the crucial city center and filling the streets with people.

The World Cup could also be the catalyst for social change in the area, which could start better city management. These things in turn could lead to a better city infrastructure and a voice for the city’s lower and middle class. I think these coming years will be a very interesting time for Brasilia and could really set the city on a good path, but it will certainly be an uphill battle.

I should take the time now to thank all the people who helped me get here-I couldn’t have done it alone! So thank you Carl Reed and Diane Alters, who helped with the content of my grant; my parents, who told me to go for it; my grandpa for all the great advice on photography, architecture, and life; the college and the President’s office; and of course the Keller Family for their generous funding of the Venture Grant.

Ellie

–Here are some photos I took that didn’t quite fit into any post but I wanted to share:

Superblocks and South Lake

One really gets of a sense of the “planning” aspect of urban planning when it comes to the superblocks. Superblocks made up the core concept of what the utopian architects of this city had planned. Here are some numbers:

Exhibit A- a building:

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11 of these = 1 superblock

4 superblocks = 1 neighborhood (around 8,000 inhabitants)

15 neighborhoods = 1 wing

4 wings = Brasilia

If you want to see the true rationality behind it all, consider the naming system. Instead of following the tradition in Brazil of naming streets or buildings after public figures, every street, and building is a number. For example, here is the welcome mat of this building:

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SQS                                         = south wing

3 (odd number)                    = west of the Highway Axis;

(second in the odd series) = in the second row of superblocks west of the Axis

08                                           = the eight superblock in the north-south row, out (south) from the Monumental Axis

BL. B                                        = Bock B of that superblock

The same occurs for north-south avenues but with W/E references. In practice, since not all Brasilian think best this way, people give directions just like anyone else “The bus stop next to the kindergarten” or “the market opposite of the church”. Churches or gas stations are good landmark indications because of the sameness of most of the buildings within a sector, the Bauhaus style more consistent here than I would guess anywhere on earth.

 

 

 

The idea behind the superblock was utopian in nature. In theory, each superblock was to be a small, self-sufficient community. There was a preschool and kindergarten, church, and a commercial block in each one. In theory great, in practice…not so much. Many superblocks are lacking the promised structures, though most of them do contain a commercial block, which is the liveliest part of the city I’ve seen. The buildings themselves, dreamed of a utopian place for those of all social classes to interact, are seemingly abandoned. Each of these buildings is required to have an elevated first floor so as to allow easy walking access. The first floor seems like an obvious meeting area, shaded and with amble seating area, but no one is there. I believe that it again goes back to the lack of numbers in the buildings. Perhaps 50 years ago this place was bursting with people walking back and forth but these days there is a feeling of abandonment throughout.

The residences of the superblock would be, say, the vice president of a large company. He could possibly live in the same superblock with his driver. This worked for a little bit, the mingling of social classes. But eventually the upper class moved out to the south part of the city next to the lake.

One can probably see how maddening the monotony of building styles could be to certain people. The city’s severe building codes frustrated people. Imagine living in a gated community with strict visual guidelines like what color you can paint your house and what style fence you can put up. Then imagine that community extending to your entire city, and not really having an option to leave. Times have changed since the 50s though, and I stumbled upon a neighborhood that, while originally all of the houses looked identical, the rules were relaxed in the 1970s. The area was originally built for merchants and professionals (whereas the superblocks were mostly for the workers who built the city), and the owners took it upon themselves to paint the houses different colors and expand the structures. One can perhaps sense a similar base for these houses if you know what you’re looking for, but they have for the most part taken on individual styles.

 

 

The nicest part of the city, home to many of the foreign embassy workers in the city, is South Lake. Because the apartments are still so costly in the city it has become most cost effective (in terms of money per square foot) to built a house in this part of town. Many of them sit on streets that border the large lake, ending with a cul-de-sac. Apparently, fences used to be illegal in this area, but the rule was scraped with rising crime rates. Every house I saw had one. Just as in the superblocks, I saw almost no one on these streets.

It seems as though the neighborhoods are trying to adapt and account for the plan’s deficiencies, but anything with this number of people involved and city building takes a lot of time (the 41 months it took to build the city is a rare exception). I’ll explore what this means for an aging city in my next post.

Ellie

The Many (Many) Works of Oscar Niemeyer

Roberto picked me up from my hotel in his Ford Fusion to start our tour. Yes, even though 90% of Brasilia’s famous sights are on the main street of the city, a car tour was the only way to go about seeing them all in one day. Like I’ve said before, not walker friendly.

Roberto was a great sport, expertly answering my rapid-fire questions about the city. He had lived here most of his life, so he had a lot of insight about the changes the city had seen in the previous decades. He explained something that I had actually thought a lot about-why there was no one downtown. When the city was built, all of the housing downtown was made for families. This entailed 4 or 5 person apartments. But that was 50 years ago and demographics have changed as children moved out and spouses passed away. I talked to a landlady who said that exactly 30 of her 60 units were occupied by single widowers. Meanwhile, the rent remains too sky high so young couples are moving out to the areas around the city, and the wealthier ambassadors and expats have moved to the neighborhood of South Lake. Downtown numbers are dwindling, a problem for the city’s design (that I’ll get into at a later post).

While not directly tied into my venture grant exploration, the buildings were what this city was built around. A utopian ideal of great architecture and monuments accessible to all. The monuments followed the city theme of “empty”, perhaps through the photo you can tell how astonishingly…well, empty, these places where. For instance, at the Palácio da Alvorada (Brasilia’s equivalent of the White House), I was one of 4 or 5 people there. I did find it pretty funny that, instead of a fence, they had a “moat” (I would call it more a shallow carp pond-compete with carp!-that a high school long jumper could easily hop across).

[On a related note, Roberto told me that, when asked the best time to visit Brasilia, Oscar Niemeyer responded, “Weekends, so there are no cars in front of the monuments.”]

For lunch, Roberto took me to get ‘real Brazilian pizza’ and mate, where I encountered the most people I had seen at once this trip. There were probably 5 or 6 guys eating at the counter silently watching the Brazil-South Africa soccer match. Brazil won.

One of the happiest coincidences of the days was that the National Museum (the circular building with a curving ramp sticking out of the side) was having an art exhibit on the Bauhaus movement! Ah, ‘twas a good day to be an architecture nerd in Brazil.

While the buildings didn’t disappoint, they did look…worn. White isn’t an ideal or sustainable building color. That being said, a lot of these photos are in black and white because these buildings are so much more about their form or shape, and to have the grimy concrete color in front of the building distract from the photo would kind of be a shame. Black and white really shows off the clean lines. I will say that the photos I had seen previously (and took myself) of the Dom Bosco Church (the one with all the small square panels of blue stained glass) did/do not nearly do it justice.

-Ellie

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Brasilia

Despite what TripAdvisor told me, the people at the front desk of my hotel do not speak English. That would have been fine if I knew that beforehand, but since I was expecting “Excellent English skills” I didn’t exactly do a lot of research, figuring it would be easy to just ask the front desk. Now, this isn’t because I’m the type of person who likes to travel and figure it out on the fly, quite the opposite actually. However, I’ve found that no matter how much time you spend researching a city there is just no way you’re going to know more than the people who live there.

First, let me clarify. Brasilia is not a destination like Rio. Going to Brasilia is a bit like traveling to Italy and choosing to go to Milan. No offense to any fans of Milan out there. I will admit my only experience with the city was a night sleeping on a cold marble bench in their train station, but you get the idea. To drive the point home, I was the only non-Brazilian on my flight. This is not speculative; I walked through the ‘foreigners’ customs line alone. I was pretty relieved to even be let into the country considering I look a bit like a mass murderer in my VISA photo (I’m gonna split the blame on that one with the Walgreens photo guy).

Check in with the front desk and my general questions about the area (like where to eat) did not go quite as smoothly as I imagined. After realizing neither of us could understand each other (I had a feeling that my one Portuguese phrase, “A menina come uma maca//the girl eats an apple” would not be getting me very far) we met in the middle and conversed in Spanish. I use the word ‘conversed’ lightly, it was mostly him speaking Spanish phrases or words quite slowly to me, followed by a lot of hand motions. But ultimately, as it often does in these situations, we had a good idea of what each other were trying to say, though the conversation ended with me putting my credit card number on a slip of paper for reasons not entirely known. I suppose I should start checking my bank account on a more regular basis just in case.

Apparently, because of Carnival and Brasilia’s poor pedestrian planning, nothing is open within walking distance. Oh well, what’s the saying? “There’s no better way than getting to know a culture than eating their frozen meals”?

The first thing I notice is how empty it feels here. I was the only one checking into (possibly staying at?) my hotel, and despite being surrounded by high-rises, I didn’t see anyone as I walked the block from where my taxi dropped me off to the hotel doors. It felt a bit post-apocalyptic. When I got to my room on the 16th floor and looked down onto the main axis (think of it like DC’s mall) I could see a few groups of people walking the immense stretches between cross streets like little ants. But that was the only real sign of life. This may just be my reaction to staying at a business hotel instead of a crowded youth hostel. I guess when one has spent most of their nights traveling on a bunk bed in a crowded room, one comes to expect certain things with their lodging (namely, a steady stream of loud young travelers coming into and out of the room at all hours of the night). But it still feels eerie, and I’m not exactly sure what to do with myself…

Some of the only people I saw the entire first day outside of a car.

Some of the only people I saw the entire first day who were not in a car.

I was told it wasn’t really safe to walk around the hotel area at night, and I can kind of seem why. This is what the view of the place is at night:

Not exactly a way to blend in with a crowd…

Not exactly a way to blend in with a crowd…

I think my Lonely Planet guide book summed it up nicely as "With long distances and harrowing six-lane highways connected by spaghetti junctions to negotiate, Brasilia is not really a city for walkers."

I think my Lonely Planet guide book summed it up nicely as “With long distances and harrowing six-lane highways connected by spaghetti junctions to negotiate, Brasilia is not really a city for walkers.”

Luckily I did do some research, and had written down the number of a highly recommended tour guide who has a background in architecture. One phone call later I am poised to meet Roberto tomorrow in the lobby of my hotel at 12 to begin our day of touring the architectural sights of Brasilia.

I’m excited to finally see Oscar Niemeyer’s extensive work in this city, as for so long they have been just been staring back at me from the pages of a book. I am a little worried they will not live up to the photos (some CC students may recall me dragging them through the streets of Vienna one night in a desperate attempt to find Otto Wagner’s Postal Savings Bank. I was met with several “this is it?” stares upon arrival) but architecture is an art form you must experience to really appreciate, so I remain deliriously excited to finally step into these buildings.

That’s it for now!

Ellie

My view at night

My view at night

Brazil Bound

Welcome to my blog detailing my venture grant! I suppose my 9-hour layover at the Miami Airport is a convenient time to write a first post. A quick introduction on me, where I’m going, and what I’m doing:

I am a senior political science major with a focus on international relations. Last spring I studied abroad in beautiful Copenhagen, Denmark, on a program studying non-European immigration and integration in Scandinavia. I also took a class there on how to read cities based on their architectural styles, maps, and structure. For my final paper I ended up merging these two diverse studies by looking at how various housing and immigrant distribution policies throughout Scandinavia were impacting social cohesion in neighborhoods. This is all a longwinded way of saying I’ve recently become very interested in urban planning, and how a city’s structure can have impacts on its citizens and the society at large. How can city design positively or negatively impact things like social capital? Why are some neighborhoods rundown and others are not? This brings me to my venture grant.

I am headed (in a few hours) to the capital city of Brazil, Brasilia. I bet you thought the capital was Rio, and that’s okay, I did too until sophomore year when I ran across the city in an architecture course. What’s so architecturally significant about a city most of us have never heard of? Surprisingly, a lot! Brasilia is an architectural haven, and a UNESCO World Heritage site to boot. You see, in 1956 it was decided that Brazil’s capital should move from Rio to the more centrally located Brasilia. There was just one problem. This is what Brasilia looked like in 1956.

Brasilia The plan was to build the city up from scratch, which afforded the city complete control over the city’s structure and plan. It was the 1950s, so the utopian urban planning of the Modern movement was in full force. The entire city was completed in just 41 months. Lucio Costa designed the city, with famed architect Oscar Niemayer designing many of the public buildings.

The Critique:

What brings me to Brasilia is actually not the beautiful modernist buildings, but the many faults that people find with the city and its design. The city, designed in the shape of an airplane, has at times been used as a symbol of the failure of urban planning and architecture to take into account the real needs of the people who live in urban areas.

While the museum district is filled with beautiful examples of modern architecture, the city design has sparked debate about just how much government oversight there should be in urban planning, and if it is better to have cities arise naturally with population growth. It is a fascinating contrast to the neighborhoods I studied in Copenhagen which date back to medieval times. While Brasilia looks quite beautiful on a site plan or from an airplane, one finds, in reality, a city devoid of street life. This is due to a variety of factors such as the city being planned on a scale suitable for people moving at speeds of 60km/h (traveling by car) as opposed to a pedestrian friendly city, coupled with the use of single use neighborhoods and cul-de-sacs.

The 1950s brought about a love affair with the automobile, along with cities designed around them.

The 1950s brought about a love affair with the automobile, along with cities designed around them. 

I am headed to Brasilia to see how the citizens of Brasilia have modified their urban environment to cope with poor design, and to understand how the people who live there deal with design issues. I am interested to see if the inhabitants of Brasilia have modified their urban landscape to deal with the sterile environment, if they have moved out of the central districts to create their own spaces outside the city, or if nothing has been done and no street life exists (and what the consequences are if that is the case).

I will primarily study this through photography, both because it’s the format I feel most comfortable with, and due to photography and architecture’s relationship with one another. I’ll be using photographer Marcel Gautherot’s beautiful black and white photographs from the book Building Brasilia for reference (all black and white photos posted will be his unless noted).

I’ll leave it at that for now, I promise more photos for the next post!

Ellie

Technical Difficulties

Final night in Yellowknife. Best aurora yet. First night with camera problems. Obviously.

It was an early display last night, without the interim between the weak and strong displays that I had noticed two nights ago. My complimentary hot chocolate was interrupted by the announcement that the aurora was increasing in intensity, so I was already flustered as I tried to navigate the teepee flap with the tripod. Looking over the frozen lake in front of me I could see several distinct ribbons of light visibly dancing, where mere minutes before had only been a dull haze. Knowing that sometimes the lights can last as little as five minutes, I hustled over to the spot my dad secured on the lake and began setting up the tripod. I had been outside just a few minutes before, trying to photography the early aurora, so the metal was frozen and sticking. After struggling with the legs, I went to mount the camera, and the dang thing would not click into the base.

If I was flustered before I was basically frantic now. Around me I could hear the “Oww’s” and “Ahh’s” of the other guests at the Aurora Village whom I could not see, as night turned us all into black masses. Finally, I managed to get it secured, and with a sign of relief, I turned the lens to the tree line and composed a shot. By this point, the entire sky was ablaze with undulating green bands. Again, we had the privilege to be directly under a portion of the ribbon, but this time two ends flared out in either direction so you could trace the path of the lights from beginning to end. With all the settings adjusted, I pressed the shutter button halfway down and waited for the telltale hum of the auto-focus adjusting to the focal point.

Nothing. No movement. Frustration turned to desperation.

It was the coldest night that I had attempted to use the camera, and as I figured out later, the lens had stopped registering distances as the metal froze. Thinking that this may have been the problem, I dismantled the whole camera and stuck it beneath both of my jackets in an attempt to warm it before the lights faded away. The cold metal dropped my core temperature faster than I would have thought possible, so I quickly gave up that idea, and remounted the camera in a last ditch effort to get a few shots off before it was too late. For reasons still unknown to me, everything came together at that moment, and I took some pictures where the whole sky is full of clearly dynamic green ribbons.

All in all, I was able to get a few pictures that I would have been proud to share. Except, when I went to upload them to this post, I realized that they were all too big. I was experimenting with a higher ISO setting, and it made the images too large for this site to handle. What I could upload is actually a pretty neat picture of the Aurora Village backlit by the rising moon. Though it’s not the most breathtaking image of the night, it is a good representation of the beautiful landscape under which I experienced the aurora on my last night in Yellowknife.

The teepees of the Aurora Village backlit by the moonrise

A Pattern to the Aurora

Last night we took ski-doos (I tried calling it a snowmobile and was met with a blank stare until I amended my verbiage) 30 minutes outside of town to a quaint cabin tucked into a small bay on Great Slave Lake. We were paying for an “Aurora Viewing Tour” which made me cringe for several reasons:

1)   I do not like paying for something that I can do for free. No one can charge to watch the display in the sky, but as I learned early on in this trip, you have to be patient and willing to wait. But waiting out in the cold and wind is not really an option up here, so in essence what we are paying for is a warm house with complimentary hot chocolate and muskox meatballs. The awesome mode of transport was just an added bonus.

2)   I do not like being “the tourist”. That person who walks into a room and stares wide-eyed as they try to get their bearings, equipped with dangling camera and area map. On this trip more than any in my past I have embraced the inevitable and succumbed to the tourist image. Which actually served me well because in addition to finding a bunch of great eateries and good deals, I got a free pass to complain about the cold (just a little).

Regardless to my unfounded aversion to spending money and owning up to being a visitor, the viewing tour was great. We had a beautiful view with a great foreground for my pictures and very little light pollution.

Because we had a warm house to retreat to, we were able to stay up and watch the entire sequence of the aurora. I am beginning to notice a real pattern in the displays, and our guide for the night verified some of my observations.

At first it is just a whisper of light, a band that cuts across the sky devoid of color and movement. Initially I was mistaking the band for a stray cloud and almost missed the beginnings of the show because of it. Eventually, the colors will deepen just enough to give off a faint green hue, but the ribbons of color don’t change their shape very quickly. Last night, this stage lasted for about 45 minutes, but it was so faint at the end that you could only see the color with a long exposure picture, it was no longer visible to the naked eye.

10:36 pm
The initial aurora, colorful enough to see with the naked eye, but with little movement

11:11pm
The aurora as it fades, I couldn’t see the colors without the camera’s help

I thought this was going to be it for the night as the aurora forecast for that evening was pretty calm. So when our guide called us to pack up around 12:30am, I was totally content with the images I had taken. Camera and tripod both safely secured to my dad’s back for travel, we waited outside for the ski-doos to warm up. I was the first to notice the indistinct cloud forming above our heads, and it was only a matter of seconds before it erupted into a flame of color. It stretched almost from horizon to horizon, east to west, and was nearly directly overhead so that we were looking up into the ribbons from below. Paralyzed by awe, I barely had time to get out my camera and snap a few hurried shots before it began to fade and we were herded on the ski-doos. I will confess that I was not a good driver on our way back, as I kept tilting my head back to see if it was still above us. As far as I could tell, it stayed with us until we reached the lights of the city, where it quietly faded away.

12:44am
The second aurora of the evening with deeper colors and more movement

I think I let my descriptions get the better of me, so incase I was not clear, here is the pattern I have noticed thus far:

  • The initial manifestation of the aurora is a stagnant “cloud,” perhaps with a slight greenish hue
  • Early in the evening, an aurora with little movement, but a deeper color so as to clearly identify it as such, will appear slowly in the sky and last for around 45 minutes, the fade slowly back into the night
  • Later in the evening, the same preceding cloud will appear, but quickly explode with color and movement, lasting for less time than the first, perhaps 15 minutes.

I am happy to give my insight, but please take into account that I am still exceptionally new to this. I have heard so many different accounts from residents of Yellowknife that I can already recognize there are no fast and true rules to the aurora. It does what it wants when it wishes, and you have to be ready to observe it, for it will not wait around for you.

In Search of Naka

After a day of fishing, checking traps, and collecting firewood, I asked a new friend to tell me a story about the northern lights. Over tea and ginger cookies, he told me about a hunting trip with this father many years ago when naka (the Dene word for the northern lights) had led them to caribou:

Neither man had seen any sign of caribou in several days. After building camp for the night, the father pointed off into the distance and said they would hunt in that direction tomorrow. He was indicating the direction underneath the northern lights which could be seen in the distance, but made no comment on this coincidence to his son. However, this was his way of teaching. The son had to observe and experience in order to learn. The following day, the father set out early on snowshoes, while the son harnessed their best team of dogs. The son caught up with his father and together they traveled in the direction of the naka the night before. At first they did not see anything, so they traveled farther. Then they saw some tracks, but they were old, so they traveled farther. The farther they traveled, the newer the tracks became, until they came upon a large, fresh path through the snow. The father signaled to pull the sled up a hill and out of the way. He sat and began to pack a pipe to wait. Before he could light the tobacco, a herd of caribou rounded the bend and walked toward the men. The father abandoned his pipe, took off his hat and poured his shells inside. They shot fifteen caribou that day. The son asked the father if caribou were attracted to naka. The father responded yes, because when their hooves click together naka dances for them across the sky.

I took as little artistic liberty with that story as I could, except to exclude names. It was a really profound experience to hear this story from the man who lived it. The imagery he created and the utility of a phenomenon that I had only attributed an aesthetic beauty was quite remarkable. Hearing the story just redoubled my determination to see what I came here for.

Last night it all finally paid off, but I am finding it incredibly hard to articulate the event. It is too simple to say that I saw the aurora, because it was more of an experience. At the time it did not seem so profound, but now as I try to write and describe what I saw I am becoming increasingly more blocked. For now, I will let the pictures tell the story of my first experience with naka.

 

The Ice Road Adventure

My Father likes to test the bounds of human capabilities. This usually leads to some pretty intense physical challange in far from ideal conditions. For example, before school began last year, my dad and I drove my car out to the Springs a few days early in the hopes of summiting Pikes Peak. Two days after arriving at altitude and one day after running the Warrior Dash, we decide it will be a great idea to start our Pikes ascent a little late to give us time to rest. Not too long into the hike, I start feeling the altitude, but not wanting to be the weak link I keep my mouth shut and keep trekking. Just as we reach tree line, the thunderheads we had been watching grew ominously gray and thunder sounded in the sky. My dad was thoroughly disappointed, but I was secretly rejoicing. I wasn’t sure how much farther I could have gone before it got dangerous. As the rain fell, we jogged the nine miles back to the car. On the way down I finally admitted how out of it I was near the top and I got seriously reprimanded for not being responsible enough to make my limits known. Easier said than done, when your hiking partner is over thirty years older but in far better shape with enough tenacity and fervor to fuel ten ascents.

So really I should not have been surprised when what was supposed to be a leisurely stroll on the ice road to watch the sun rise quickly turned into a challenge this morning. It started with simple questions like, “So how far is Dettah?”(the ice road connects a community across Yellowknife Bay with the greater city of Yellowknife during the winter. When the ice melts, it’s an 18 km drive around the bay). Then it turned into, “Well, do you think it would be dangerous to walk all the way across?” And this is where I made the mistake of responding, “I don’t think it would be dangerous, just uncomfortable.” And suddenly we were off.

When we started, the weather was warmish and a gentle breeze was at our backs. We walked facing the sunrise and watched it turn the clouds brilliant shades of auburn and crimson. We examined the ice that peaked through the hard packed snow and tried to estimate just how thick it was. But the farther we got from the shore, the more the wind picked up and the faster the temperature dropped. Conversation stopped and hoods went up as we fought the needling winds.

This was the point that I decided not to repeat my mistake on Pikes Peak. I called the trudging to a stop and pointed out how little progress we appeared to be making. We could still see Yellowknife clearly, but had not spotted Dettah on the horizon. Logic prevailed, and we turned around. It was probably one of the better choices I have made recently.

The walk back took twice the effort of the walk out. The wind was now blowing at an angle towards our faces, and no amount of tucking or angling could protect the exposed skin of my cheeks. Dad took the lead and I was able to draft, which cut the wind considerably. We turned around as the sun made its final ascent over the clouds and it was such a spectacular image over the windswept landscape that I had to take a picture. Tactical error. Even with my liners on, I lost all feeling in my fingers in the 30 seconds I had them out of my big gloves.

Windswept Sunrise

At this point, I am beginning to question my initial assumption that this walk would not be dangerous. With nothing else to do, we continue walking back. I replace my dad’s shadow as I tuck in behind his jacket to avoid as much of the wind as possible. As cold as my face, fingers and knees were getting, my torso had begun to sweat from the effort. But I dared not unzip anything because the sweat would freeze in seconds. And though it was just walking, my legs began to tire from a combination of cold and fatigue. But I dared not stop to rest because it doesn’t take long to get too cold to function properly. There was really no other option but to continue walking despite the increasingly uncomfortable situation.

We made it back none the worse for the wear, but looking hilariously windswept. The hair that has escaped my hat was frozen across my face and my cheeks were more red than a maraschino cherry. But my dad took the prize with a quarter inch icicle suspended from his eyelashes.

My Dad’s frosty face after we reach land again. Notice the aforementioned icicle.

If my math is right, which it usually isn’t, it’s about five miles from Yellowknife to Dettah across the ice road. Adding the distance we had to walk from town just to get to the ice road, we are guessing we walked maybe five miles today. Just under half way across the ice road and we had to call it quits. I get my stubbornness from my father, and I hate having to back down from a challenge. However, I am not messing with these elements. Even though I hate admitting that I have any, its good to know your limits, and today we reached mine.

Happy New Year!

Fireworks to celebrate the New Year in Yellowknife

 

Onlookers spread out over the ice to watch the display